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The Painting Contract - June 2024


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Got another hour and a half of work done on celennar - finished the base's foundation, still working some on the ruined shrine luminor, but drybrushed some layers onto it, including the dirt piled up between the ruins. On celennar himself, got the red on the wings highlighted up as well as the dark brown, haven't touched the orange brown or anything else yet as I intend to do that by traditional highlight or at least a mix of that and drybrushing around the wings.

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27 minutes ago, Big Kim Woof-Woof said:

I've been a naughty little hedonite and have been painting a model that wasn't part of my Contract. Was fun to paint, anyway. 

Temptation is very fitting, contracts are for KO anyway. Lovely job!

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Got the first 5 steelhelms (technically bronzehelms In this case) finished for my Verdigris CoS, I'm pretty happy with the colour scheme turned out overall. I was initially worried that the purple wouldn't go well with the turquoise but I think it worked out pretty well in the end. I'm really keen to see how the cavaliers are going to look in this colour scheme.

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Edit: not too sure why the image quality turned bad after uploading the image

Edited by SilentSentinel
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I have been working on a random Phoenix Guard for a bit. Just trying out some stuff. It has been a while since I painted a metal model.

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The guy on the left was probably my best painted miniature at some point. I was really proud of that cape when I painted it. But it turns out all the youtube painters are right: Just paint brighter than you think and it will look better.

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12 minutes ago, Neil Arthur Hotep said:

 But it turns out all the youtube painters are right: Just paint brighter than you think and it will look better.

I didn't know that was a piece of advice that was in common usage (I don't watch YouTube tutorials) but it's so true. I have to keep reminding myself to get the brighter paints out. 

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Just now, Big Kim Woof-Woof said:

I didn't know that was a piece of advice that was in common usage (I don't watch YouTube tutorials) but it's so true. I have to keep reminding myself to get the brighter paints out. 

 

I heard this explanation from scale modelers before: If you get the exact shade of paint that, for example, a tank or airplane is in real life and use it to paint your model, it will look too dark. That is because the smaller model reflects less light overall, which makes it look darker even from just a meter or so away. Plus, all the fake shadows you have to put on there darken the model as well. Even if you are painting a low key/grimdark style, it really helps to have at least some light on the model. Otherwise, you get the dreaded "Is this actually painted or just black?" effect once you look at it from a tabletop distance and angle.

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This is something i also still struggle with, but it is really good advice. Its hard for me to brighten up the darker paints. It feels unnatural to put bright paints on a darker tone for some reason, but it looks good from a distance. 

I also quit painting under a bright light. It doesnt give me the tabletop quality i want. It becomes a display piece with perfect lighting for pictures instead. When looking at such models with normal lighting they tend to be too dark for me.

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More or less finished Phoenix Guard:

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I focused on wet blending and more adventurous colour combinations witj this guy. I also wanted to see where not using metallics would get me.

I certainly think the end result is sharper and more vibrant than my previous GW method guy. A big advantage NMM methods have over metallics is how easily you can go to pure white, making the paint job much brighter. 

EDIT: Based the mini as well.

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RIP in peace Phoenicium. You will be missed. Not by me, but I am sure by someone.

Edited by Neil Arthur Hotep
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17 hours ago, Neil Arthur Hotep said:

I focused on wet blending and more adventurous colour combinations witj this guy. I also wanted to see where not using metallics would get me.

I certainly think the end result is sharper and more vibrant than my previous GW method guy.

The end result is infinitely better. It's not just about painting brighter - the key is the difference in colour values on the model. I sometimes take pictures of my models in grayscale to check if there is enough value difference. If the model looks flat in grayscale, it will look flat regardless of the colours used - and your Phoenix Guard comparison illustrates this very well.

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1 hour ago, Flippy said:

The end result is infinitely better. It's not just about painting brighter - the key is the difference in colour values on the model. I sometimes take pictures of my models in grayscale to check if there is enough value difference. If the model looks flat in grayscale, it will look flat regardless of the colours used - and your Phoenix Guard comparison illustrates this very well.

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This is what I had in mind when I mentioned NMM techniques making the model brighter. If you look at the metallic armour on the left, it has pretty good shadows and even highlights, but it is mostly mid tones, which results in overall lower value contrast.

Trying NMM, I realized that this is just a property of metallic paints: They need to be mid-tones because there needs to be room in terms of values for them to reflect light at a higher brightness than their base colour. The metallics I used on the left were my brightest gold and silver paints, and I think I could not get paints that are meaningfully brighter without actually losing value contrast between the base tone and reflection.

This whole thing is making me want to move towards more NMM for my army painting, not just singular models. I never really got the point of NMM, but I think I understand it now.

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Happy to say I finished off my unit of Vanquishers this month and thought I had completed Yndrastas spearhead until I realised I hadn’t done the obnoxiously large banner bearer guy - so he’s on my list of things to do until the Skaventide arrives. Did I mention I hate painting banners…

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